On The Road With Maggie Scratch at Tower Mel’s in the Siren Wind

tower mel 2
“Tower Mel is what Izzy would be like if he hadn’t stopped taking drugs. Intelligent, attractive, charming, charismatic, creative, crazy and living too close to Es Vedra. Mel lives in an old watchtower on the edge of the sea above the cliffs of Cala D’Hort. The Ibicencos say the tower has been there for over a thousand years and the mortar holding the stones together is made from a recipe that no longer exists. It’s a round squat tower that was built to protect the island from pirates. Fires were lit on the rooftop to warn the neighboring watchtower of approaching ships. That tower would light a fire and the warning would be relayed around the island until all the watchtowers were lit. Historians think Mel’s roof probably had a cannon at one time. It’s flat and empty now and Mel goes up there to meditate. Mel lives on top of the sea, on top of the world, with the siren winds, a view of Es Vedra and no toilet. He doesn’t have a kitchen. He has a fireplace. Mel can sleep through the siren wind. He’s a veteran at sleeping through the wind. Earplugs. I always find one on the floor. On the way to Tower Mel’s, the wind almost killed me. I hate the siren wind. It’s ominous and full of premonitions. Last night, Izzy was walking right behind me on the cliff. He was calling something to me, I could hear his voice but I couldn’t make out the words. When I turned around, the sirens almost threw me off the cliff. They could have tossed me down onto the rocks and scattered my bones like poker chips. I know better than to turn around in the siren wind and I know better than to turn around on that narrow goat path on the edge of the Cala D’Hort cliff. The path to Tower Mel’s is as narrow as the one that leads down to Pebble Beach. There is only one way to walk these paths. Eyes straight ahead, watch every step, hold your breath, pray.”

Maggie Scratch


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